Finally got RH nose under control

I never did make it in during the week, as I had hoped, so I had to start by applying filler on the low spot I found last week.

While the filler set I worked on the LH door. I discovered there were no fasteners holding on the wood trim panel. I just tapped it up and free with a candy hammer. I also removed the window lift motor. Note the one short bolt in the photo.

When the filler was ready I spent what time I had smoothing it and the surrounding area. I went ahead and applied a coat of etching primer and a coat of white enamel even though the area is not ready or finish paint. This coat is there as a moisture barrier, to prevent new rust while I work elsewhere.

RH nose, air dam, almost ready

My goal for the day was to duplicate on the right side what I had done on the left, namely bring the repairs to a close and put down a coat of real paint to block moisture as I continue working elsewhere. This does not mean the area is finished and ready for paint. More like ready to start wet sanding as prep for paint.

Well, I didn't get that far. There are some tricky spots remaining. Most notably a deep groove along the joint between the panel beneath the grill opening and the air dam, caused by a fiberglass patch. In the close-up pic it is below the black fiberglass patch in the center of the pic. I got as far as being ready to apply filler but was out of time. Hopefully I'll do that during the week.

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Door Skins, day 1

I never got around to writing last week's blog. On Saturday night we attended the 50th anniversary concert of the Hawaii Gagaku Ensemble, and Sunday was taken up by a long bike ride. It's been busy.




Last week was unusual in that the shop was full to overflowing. My E9 was overshadowed by a row of trucks.





Smoothed out the Epoxy Filler applied to the RH corner last time.





Underside of LH grill opening after grinding down the excess POR-15 from the fiberglass patch. To be filled in with TECHNIFILL.





This is to remind me to work on the RH side.






RH corner after shooting with POR-15 Etching Primer.






The bump in the middle of the curved is a weld seam from when the car was made, or old repairs. Cannot get that any lower.






Last thing done was to apply TECHNIFILL on the underside of the LH grill opening.


It's been a couple weeks now since I started looking for door skins. So far the most promising source has been Classic Heros, an English shop specializing in BMWs. Hey, they use an E9 on their web site, so they must be okay. I got a nice reply from Barney Halse saying they probably have them in stock, but he was out of town on vacation. I worry that the shipping will exceed the purchase price.








Now the the nose is just about done I decided it was time to make a big step forward, so today I focused on getting ready to fix the doors. Step 1, remove the inner panel on the RH door. Remove the latch handle, then the arm rest. The book described clips around the edge, but mine had screws. Typical old BMW shop manual.








Found the connector for the window motor in a recess behind the kick panel. Also found a lot of light surface rust, which I will need to treat. The two hot wires were easy, just a couple of push-on terminals connected to a large plastic block. The ground wire was another story. First, it was loose. The connector is a ring terminal attached to the frame with a screw. The screw has not been tightened, possibly because it is next to inaccessible, but it is now rusted solidly in place. I ended up cutting the wire ... I would never put it where it was. This might explain why I had a ground problem with the door windows.






I lost a lot of time fiddling with that ground wire, but I was determined to get the door off. I call it "visual progress." I ran into a stone wall when I discovered the FWD upper hinge bolt does not have a standard hex head. It looks like a Torx head, but my Torx tool did not fit tight enough to turn it. That was my day.

Sand, sand, sand

If I feel like I didn't accomplish much today it's because all I did was sand. That and a spot of TECHNIFILL. Now my arms are sore!

The center grill opening is very close to done. In the last set of pics you see that the arches need a little more work. I could stop now and the car would look pretty good ... but I jwant it to look "wow."

More nose, a little buffing

Before getting to this week's work, I want to share a nice YouTube video I picked up on Twitter via @classicheroes. It captures the classy side of the coupe beautifully.

I got started today with that blob of filler in the center grill opening. A while back I bought a new rotary file bit to use in the die grinder, because the shop's is worn out. Today was my first time using it. Worked great on those concave curves. I had some work to do to center the downward pointing dip. I wanted to take more off on the RH side but am down to bare metal, so I have to extend the LH section downward to balance it. I also noticed a low spot on the LH side, on the forward facing section bordering the grill opening. For these places I decided to switch to TECHNIFILL, because the amount to fill is small and I could do more than one cycle today.

While working here I noticed that I had lost some of the indent where the upper panel joins the front panel. I decided to see if I could re-create it, but I ran into metal right below the primer, so I'll just leave it alone. This area is covered by the trim strip.

While the filler set I decided to experiment with cleaning up the grill, with the help of my Makita buffer. I started with the compound I got for cleaning up the Lotus after I repaired the scratched paint, Meguire Fine Cut Cleaner . When that did not work a miracle I tried Griot's Mag Wheel polish, the stuff I used to polish the carbs on the Lotus. This is a more traditional metal polish, the kind that stinks and needs a good stir before using. Again, no miracles. I decided to bring all that stuff home and work on it by hand after dinner, while watching TV.

Back to the nose. After a round of sanding I could see I was getting close, but I needed a little more thickness in a couple places. I added another layer and called it a day.

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Center grill

This morning I concentrated on the center grill and grill opening. I'll get back to the bad primer when I locate more wet/dry sandpaper.

The LH side of my replacement grill opening came out slightly higher than the RH side. So the gap between the grill and the opening is too large on that side. After grinding off all the primer I added some POR-15 Epoxy Filler. Ran out of time to shape it, mostly because I started working on the grill.

The grill has two issues. One of the studs is missing, and it has three small dents about two inches from the top, in the verticle bars. Right behind the upper mounting brackets. Couldn't find a replacement stud, but I did smooth out the dents. Not perfect, but a big improvement. Didn't get a picture, yet. And it needs a good polishing.

I spent time on the panel below the LH grill opening, applying two layers of TECHNIFILL in the process.Still not done, but a lot better. Before leaving I applied POR Patch to the fiberglass patch from last week. I like that technique.

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Still on the nose, regret the loss of Redline

Took Friday off and spent much of it on the E9. Stopped off at what used to be Redline in Kalihi for a wedge shaped sanding block and some wet paper. The paint section looked worse than ever, and still no new Redline oil. I asked about the block and was told to try the "paint center" in Pearl City. Since I had the whole day I decided to undertake the adventure.

Turns out Redline is no more, bought out by NAPA. The paint center does have PPG paint, but the situation with my sanding block is cause for concern. I was told that since it is not a NAPA item it would be 6-8 weeks before it came in, if ever. So what used to be the only professional automotive paint store in Honolulu is now just another NAPA. What a shame. On balance, NAPA is the only store I trust with repair components for average cars, like my van -- water pumps and such. The others sell nothing but junk. For me it is factory original, or NAPA. Anything else is a waste of time. For specialized cars like my E9 and my Lotus there are reputable sources, just nowhere near Honolulu.

Just for fun I decided to locate the new store on Google Maps. Check the comments ... my feelings exactly. The exact opposite of the old Redline.

My Saturday session was longer due to no Gamelan rehearsal. Over the two days I got a lot done, but not much "visual progress." Sanding, a little more filler, another coat of primer. Tweaks everywhere. One place that is taking a lot of time is the area below the grill opening on the LH side. Trying to even out some old impact damage and deal with the acute angle at the joint with the air dam.

Exposed a new spot under the LH side light. Not rusted, just pitted, like old damage. Wire brushed, POR-15 clean and prep, filled with Technifill.

One new thing I did was to start grinding out some rusty spots in the underside of the hood and near the windshield opening. Nothing big. Looks like I'll have to weld a patch along the corner of the water gutter, just like the rear trunk opening. Gave all of the exposed areas the POR-15 clean and prep treatment.

I exchanged mail with Coupe King concerning door skins. Apparently he has steel for one side and aluminum (CSL style) for the other. Guess I'll keep looking. I'd like to add one of his air dams, but I'm sure I'd knock it off at the first parking lot.

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Nose - all that's left is tweaking

After a little look-over and fine sanding, the first thing I did today was add some TECHNIFILL to the low spots. Well, actually, the first thing I did was apply Metal Prep too all the bare places, because in just one week of rainy weather, surface rust had set it. In Hawaii you just can't leave steel unprotected for long.

While waiting for the filler to set I removed the two grills from the hood. This was easier than expected because the screws go into plastic. For the car to look good these will need to be replaced. I wonder how other E9 owners deal with this.

When the filler was set I did a lot of sanding, trying to blend the new stuff with the surrounding surface. I actually started using 100# paper. I added the radius at the top edge of the roundel mount using a spongy sanding block. I removed the jig and smoothed the filler even though it will be hidden, mostly to ensure good water drainage. When everything was good I shot it all with POR-15 Etching Primer. I used this instead of the 3M product because of the fiberglass patches applied with POR-15. As it turned out, two of those patches had pin holes. I tried smoothing the paint with a fingertip the fill the holes, but of course the surface ended up a mess.

The last thing I did was add some filler on the lower LH side and the upper RH side.

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