Showing posts with label locks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label locks. Show all posts

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Door deconstruction

Learned a lot about E9 doors today. Some things seem really well thought out, others seem haphazard. Obviously a side effect of being hand made. I also learned that one of this car's POs was a careless mechanic, because the guy I bought it from told me he swapped out the doors from some he bought on the mainland, and I found lots of missing hardware. Why use two bolts when one will do?

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I decided to start with the vent window gearbox, but that was a mistake. Need to remove the entire window frame first, as it slides down into the gearbox drive shaft.

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Removing the window only required two bolts, both in the rear. Appears a third bolt in the rear lift bracket was missing. The glass is passable, but not all that good. Has a long scratch along one edge (as if a rock got jammed in the window opening), and there is a chip near the upper edge. I am not going to replace it until everything else is nice. Which may be never.

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The forward window rail carries all of the weight. Along with one or two normal looking bolts that go into tapped holes, there are two unusual mounts made up from slotted studs and nuts. Remove the nuts and washers, then "tighten" the studs if necessary until they slide up through the slots.

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I took a series of five pictures of to detail the rust damage along the top edge. The inner panel will need some repairs before new skins can be attached. I plan to do that before removing the old skin.

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The vent window connects to the gearbox via a flat tang and slotted shaft. Looks like a bolt belongs here, but nothing present.

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Two quick shots of bottom edge rust damage. May need to repair inner panel but does not appear as severe as the top edge.

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Removed the outer door handle and the lock.

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The rear lift rail was only attached by two thin nuts at top of door. Note thin adjustment plate between nuts and door. Bottom end appears to be missing a bolt.

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Removed all of the trim retaining nuts, but unable to remove trim strip because one stud was rusted to its washers. Shot with PB Blaster.

All in all a very satisfying day. Do need to get back to the nose, it needs a little more work and a coat of paint to stave off more rust.
posted from Bloggeroid

Sunday, August 5, 2007

Solex locks

I didn't work on the car last week because my wife was in the Tin Man Triathlon and I went along to cheer. It was her best ever, so that was good.

The Friday night before was her training group's carbo loading party. It took place in one of Honolulu's better neighborhoods, yet while we were inside digging through fourteen types of pasta (even though I wasn't in the race I did my part) someone screwdrivered the passenger side lock on our 87 Camry station wagon. The driver side door had gotten the same treatment a month ago, but we had put up with getting in on the passenger side. Now we could not lock the car. Well, we could, but then we would have to enter through the tail gate.

Locks are a specialized business. I know I could remove and install one, but to straighten out this mess I decided it was time to call in an expert. Not knowing any I looked through the yellow pages for a shop near my office and a sensible looking ad that included the word "repair." I chose Access Lock and Key. The service was great, hard to find these days. I asked for a quote on Toyota locks so we could use the ignition key, and a quote on Solex locks. I expected the Solex locks to cost more, and so did the locksmith, but it ended up that the Solex were a bit cheaper. Better yet, Ron Pang came to my office and installed them. I was expecting an overnight stay at his place. Sure they cost a bit, but with such first class service I feel like I got a bargin.

Today's work on the E9 was uneventful. I expected to see some surface rust on the bare patches I had painted with Rust-Prep, because the instructions state the surface should be painted within 24 hours. No rust, after two weeks! Maybe because the car is inside and well protected? Just to be sure I ended today's work with a light coat of Scotch Acid Etch primer. I applied it over a coat of Rust-Prep, with a 30 minute drying period in between, per the instructions. The guy at Redline Automotive thought this would work. I will start off my next session by testing the primer for adhesion.